|
Of all the Jewish holidays, Passover is the
one we most associate with wine. While some families stick with traditional,
sacramental wines for their seders, others take the
opportunity to try new varieties. This year's first kosher wines in grape
varieties and/or regions will enhance the meal, from the four cups in the seder ritual through dinner and dessert.
When planning seder meals, I check the Israeli
wines first, not just out of sentiment but because they are good and keep
getting better. A top contender, The Golan Heights Winery's 2004 Yarden Viognier, is the first
kosher and Israeli wine of this grape that I've seen. Golden-colored with
fruit, spice and oak flavors, it is buttery and full-bodied and was perfect
with chicken sauted in
onion and doused with rosemary. The winemaker likes it with
rosemary-seasoned, free-range veal and strong-flavored fish.
From Hamasrek, a
young, boutique winery in the Judean Hills near Jerusalem, I tasted a dry, 100-percent
Chardonnay. Unusually processed - half in oak and half in stainless
steel - it combines Old- and New World
styles. I loved it with herbed turkey breast, tsimmes
and potato kugel.
Borgo Reale Pinot Grigio 2005, new from Italy, is an elegant, dry, white
wine with pale-straw color and intense, fruity aroma. A delightful complement
to light fare, my husband enjoyed it with chicken breasts in a mild, honey
glaze, with steamed spinach and baby carrots. Crisp and refreshing, it's also
a match for gefilte fish.
On its own and with food, Abarbanel's Pinot Blanc
2004, the first kosher still wine of this varietal
from Alsace,
was good on its own and with food. Dry and smooth, with subtle fruit flavors,
it was perfect with lightly seasoned poultry and mild white fish. As
recommended, I drank it semi-chilled.
S'forno Godello, a new
grape for kosher wine, comes from northern Spain's mountainous Valdeorras region, almost unknown for wines 20 years ago.
Among the region's primary grapes, this fresh, dry, aromatic white wine is
smooth, velvety and medium-bodied and does wonders for simply prepared
tilapia filet coated with delicately herbed matzah meal.
I've also enjoyed it with various chicken and vegetarian menus.
Welnerberg, a new name in South African wines, is a
recent venture of wine entrepreneur Shimshon Welner. Now producing wines at Swartland
Winery, Malmesbury, he created a crisp, dry blend,
simply named White Wine. The 2005 vintage, fragrant, full-bodied and bursting
with live fruit on the finish, made it a perfect partner for chicken, white
meat of turkey and white fish.
Moving toward reds, I love Galil Mountain Ros with poached salmon,
a favorite substitute for gefilte fish. The wine is a deeper color than most
blushes or pinks, and the color translates into a rich taste.
On our own shores, Baron Herzog in California
has developed Jeunesse, a young, semi-dry Cabernet
Sauvignon. It's easy to drink and should be served lightly chilled. I'll have
some at my seders for novice wine drinkers.
To complement heartier dark meat and fish menus, some very special,
previously unknown as kosher, red wines come from Italy,
Chile, Spain and South Africa.
Opinioni Verdetto Umbria Rosso 2005, blending equal parts of Umbria's finest Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese grapes, is a dense yet soft, extremely clean
wine with hints of blue blackberries mixed with woody vanilla and underlying
cool mint. Its tannic richness and soft elegance make it a perfect partner
for roast beef, short ribs, lamb or strong red fish, including salmon and
tuna. Borgo Reale Toscano Rosso 2004, the world's
first kosher Super Tuscan, blends the same grapes from Tuscany and ages them in French barrels
for one year. The result is a ruby-red color and a bouquet of ripe fruits to
enhance the taste of your favorite brisket recipe or richly flavored turkey.
It made a feast of my turkey thigh chops in red wine, shallot and mint sauce
with root vegetables.
Another kosher first, Chilean Carmenere 2003 from
Tierra Salvage, has intense violet red color with aromas of ripe berries and
soft notes of pepper. Concentrated, velvety, with a smooth finish and sweet
tannins, it's perfect with rich, red meats.
Truly hearty, Capacanes Peraj
Habib from Spain's Montsant
region is a winner for meat meals.
A primary South African grape, Pinotage, crosses
Pinot Noir and Cinsault and is central to two new
kosher wines. Welnerberg Pinotage
2005, medium- to full-bodied, features a unique plum flavor and is suggested
to accompany a casual midweek meal. I liked very fruity Kamsburg
Pinotage, with grilled chicken and fish dishes.
New choices also await those to whom the main course is merely the road to
dessert. Israel's
new, pleasantly sweet, Ramim
Desert Frost Ros exudes strawberry,
banana, juicy red fruit and floral aromas and is delightful with fresh fruit.
Hamasrek's naturally sweet Late Harvest Gewurztraminer belongs high on the
dessert wine list.
Tierra Salvage's first Chilean, Late Harvest Riesling has intense aromas of
pear, honey, toffee and raisin and delicate touches of dry figs and peaches.
I enjoyed it before dinner, as a sweet, white Kiddush wine or with dessert.
S'forno Monastrell Dulce, Spain's deep, red-violet wine
with sweet, spicy aromas of cinnamon and cocoa, is the answer to a
chocoholic's prayers. It's also good with blue cheese after a dairy meal.
For the grand finale, Porto Cordovera, Portugal's first-ever kosher Port, is a carefully
handcrafted, ruby-red blend of the finest wines from the Upper Douro
Valley. This is the
king of after-dinner wines.
Judith Broder Sellner,
a freelance writer based in New York, has been writing about kosher wine for
almost 20 years.
|
